A walk back in time

Story and Photos by Keith T. Graff

In Motobu Town, right next to the Expo Park sits the quaint and sleepy little village of Bise. It’s a step back through time, offering a small glimpse of what Okinawa used to be like. Here, even on a busy day, life moves in low gear.

What makes Bise so unique is not only its serenity, but all the houses are surrounded by a very important form of protection known as the "fukugi” tree. By having the ability to bend with the wind, they protect homes from the many typhoons that frequent the region.

Many of the streets in Bise, if you want to call them that, are more like paths. Most are very narrow and unpaved. The fukugi trees surround virtually every home and as a result, also line all of the quaint little streets that give the village its ambiance. Adding to this charm, is the cleanliness. Here, the residents take great pride in their neighborhood and daily sweep the streets themselves.

You’ll find a few houses that have been converted into coffee houses or “kissaten’s” and a few small parlors offer ice cream and cold drinks to provide relief from the sweltering summer heat. If it’s too hot for a stroll, for a small fee you can ride old fashioned style on pony-drawn cart.

A smart way to see the village is to incorporate it into a visit to Expo Park where the parking is free. Once inside the park you can ride the tram or take a leisurely stroll and follow the signs to Emerald beach on the north end of the park. Just past the beach area is where you’ll find the back gate to the park which just so happens is right next to the main thoroughfare leading into Bise.

Turn left; the road is the only one that is paved. Go straight and once you start seeing the old style Okinawan houses surrounded by fukugi trees, you’ll know you are there.

Be sure to get off the main road and walk the shaded side streets, check out the seawall and whatever you do, be careful not to hurry. This is a place to relax and enjoy yourself; civilization will still be waiting for you when you get back.