Okonomiyaki is not a suburb of Milwaukee

Story and photos by Keith T. Graff

While Japan certainly still has poor people, there were many more of them after WWJI. The population was nearly starving and the people needed something nutritious and cheap to eat.

Okonomiyaki came to the rescue. All that is required is some flour, water, an egg and a little vegetable matter, usually cabbage. You simply whip the water, egg, cabbage and flour into a batter. It should be of a consistency much thinner than you would use for pancakes. Then, fry it in a skillet and you have a meal for the whole family.

Okonomiyaki is for all intents and purposes one of the original soul foods of Japan. Like any good food, people have experimented with this simple recipe to create their own masterpieces. Many Americans have come to call okonomiyaki “Japanese pizza.” The more popular versions of this treat seem to have their origins in either the Hiroshima or Osaka regions. However, all over Japan, people have their favorites. The list of ingredients used may vary from the simple to the sublime but the basic recipe stays the same. The main differences in regional tastes all seem to center on additions to the basic dish.

A popular, additive is okonomiyaki sauce - it tastes very much like a thickened Worcestershire sauce and is available in any off-base grocery store. Mayonnaise and katsuo-bushi are also must-have ingredients. Katsuo-bushi is made from the bonito. It is smoked and dried, then shaved into flakes. Katsuo-bushi is usually added last and it is fun to watch it dance atop the okonomiyaki as a result of the heat. Other popular additives include sliced bacon, cooked squid, onion, dried sea weed and pickled ginger. One popular version includes throwing in some soba noodles and topping it off with a fried egg sunny side up.

On a personal note: The last time we were back in the U.S. my wife made up a big batch of okonomiyaki for my whole family. They had a little trouble with the pronunciation and jokingly called it oconomowoc (a small town west of Milwaukee). My parents obligingly ate it though they didn’t particularly care for it. My “meat and potatoes” only older brother finished off four helpings and asked for more. His wife gladly used the excuse to clean out the old vegetable bin. She enjoyed the feasting as well.

If this story has piqued your interest in trying okonomiyaki, there are a few places around that serve okonomiyaki as their main fare. Dishes are usually served and priced for two or more people and are relatively inexpensive. If you have any Okinawan friends they can usually recommend a good place to go or may even invite you over to have some good home- cooked fare and teach you how to make it on your own. We found a small place down in Naha at the Ichiba market on the back end of Heiwa Don. The place is run by a retired businessman from Osaka. He serves up his favorite version daily for only a hundred yen a serving. The place is small but you can dine in or take it out. My recommendation would be to try it first and if you like it, get some more to go. You will be glad you did.