Prefectural museum presents island history, art

The main exhibit of the Okinawa Prefectural Art Museum showcases the influence World War II had on many Okinawan artists. (Photo by Lance Cpl. Tyler J. Hlavac).

Lance Cpl. Tyler J. Hlavac

NAHA, Okinawa (July 25, 2008) -- For history or art buffs looking for a glimpse into Okinawa's history and culture, the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum both offer a variety of experiences to enjoy.

The historical museum hosts an array of artifacts from ancient Okinawa dating back 18,000 years. The art museum showcases the pre and postwar era art by Okinawan artists.

The Okinawa Prefectural Art Museum is the first prefecture-run art museum on Okinawa, according to the museum's Web site, and it displays the influence World War II had on many Okinawan artists.

Some of the art displays show the chaos and destruction during the battles of World War II. In other displays, modern artists use their work to display their thoughts and feelings on modern day life, Okinawa's culture, and the trends in Okinawan art over the years.

There are also English- and Japanese-language newspapers from the World War II era as well as exhibits where visitors can learn about Okinawa's ecosystem or about the Okinawan culture from its beginning.

The Okinawa Prefectural Museum is dedicated to the study, collection and preservation of materials and resources related to Okinawa's nature, history and culture.

Visitors can view such things as an 18,000 year-old man from primitive Okinawa named Minatogawa Man.

Other exhibits include displays of ancient shrines, ancient tools and clothing worn by Japanese and Okinawan people throughout its historic periods.

History buffs may also take their time in the museum's media center, which contains archived documents and other audio and visual information detailing the history of Okinawa including the Battle of Okinawa.

The museum is a good way for visitors to learn about the island's culture and history, according to Lance Cpl. Daniel True, a combat videographer with the Camp Foster Combat Camera Center.
"The museum was the first one on Okinawa I had ever been to," he said, "and I didn't know Okinawa had so much rich, art history. The staff was very accommodating, and I recommend the museum to anyone who is new to Okinawa."

General admission to the historical museum is Y400 and the art museum is Y300. Hours of operation are 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and Sundays. Friday and Saturdays the hours are extended to 8 p.m. The museum is closed on Mondays.

To get to the museum from Gate 1 on Camp Kinser, take Route 58 south seven stoplights and turn left. Go to the second stoplight and the museum is on the left-hand side.

For more information, visit the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum Web site at http://www.museums.pref.okinawa.jp/.

Scaly beasts cut wakes

Marines, sailors propel dragons in 8th year of boat-race tradition

Lance Cpl. Andrew S. Avitt
OKINAWA MARINE STAFF

Two roughly 30-member crews of Marines and sailors competed in Naha’s 34th Annual Dragon Boat Festival at Tomari Port May 5.

The two all-Marine-and-sailor teams represented the Marine Corps Community Services Single Marine Program for the eighth year in a row at the races.

SMP had one all-female team and one all-male team, which never raced against each other in the field of 52 teams, which included all-Japanese crews, crews comprised exclusively of U.S. soldiers and also Japan Ground Self Defense Force crews.

Each heat matched up three boat crews, which propelled their colorful dragon boats forward, paddles digging in unison into the water with each beat of the caller’s drum.

Hundreds watched as SMP’s all-male team bested the U.S. Army crew in their first heat, finishing first with a time of 5 minutes and 25 seconds for the 600-meter course. They received a trophy and advanced.

“It’s all about the rhythm,” said Petty Officer 1st Class Tudo Ricardo. an SMP team member. “Once we got the momentum going with that rhythm, it wasn't hard.”

But rhythm only carried the SMP males so far against the two Japanese crews they met in the second race. The Japanese showed prowess in the 500-year-old Chinese tradition, eliminating the Americans after handing them a 3rd place finish in the heat.

The SMP males said beating the Army in a healthy rivalry was enough to call it a successful day.

The SMP females raced against two locally renowned teams, rowing the 600 meters in 6:47, but the team’s finishing time was short of what was needed to advance. Despite not advancing. the SMP ladies walked away smiling.

“Dragon boat racing was a great opportunity to build camaraderie with our neighbors,” said Cpl. Jeannene Burns, a member of the SMP female team. “What really made this great was coming out here, meeting new people and experiencing the culture.”

MCCS representative and team coach Sergio Morales said SMP will continue the tradition for years to come.

hey, mike: Dragon boat races

I’ve been hearing about how they have dragon boat races here on Okinawa. Can you tell me a little bit about them? Are they the same as the ones in Hong Kong?

— Noah J. Smith

There are several popular Chinese legends that depict water dragons as quasi-demigods that govern the rivers, seas, and oceans. And every year, during the spring and summer months, these legends come to life in the waters surrounding the island of Okinawa.

Most agree that dragon boat races originated in China, and were either brought to the island as a form of entertainment for visiting Chinese envoys, or were transferred to the Ryukyu Kingdom by islanders who saw the spectacle while visiting or studying in China. One of the most popular legends about the beginning of dragon boat racing is the story of Chu Yuan—a faithful member of a 278 B.C. Chinese emperor’s court.

ChuYuan was a poet and philosopher, and while many in the government respected Yuan (and usually heeded his sage counsel), they adored playing their political court games too much. Yuan worked long and hard for reforms to save the ailing empire. However, it wasn’t long before the emperor was beguiled by silver-tongued sycophants and ChuYuan was banished from the court.

While in exile, Chu Yuan composed poetry about his fervent love for his country, and his deep concern for his homeland’s future. He made friends among the rural populace, especially with the fishermen.

However, upon learning of the devastation of the court at the hands of a rival kingdom, Chu Yuan fell into a bleak depression. And, because he felt somehow responsible, he leaped into the Mi Lo River holding a great rock.

Many fishermen raced out in their boats in an attempt to save Chu Yuan while beating on drums and splashing their oars in the water to keep the water dragons away from his body. Although many boats were dispatched to save him, none were fast enough, It is said that the dragon boat races throughout Asia were originally held in honor of this statesman.

Today, dragon boat races are held in fishing communities throughout Okinawa beginning in the late spring and lasting through late summer. The largest of these festivals is the Naha HárI (also known as Harii) which is held during Golden Week, five days of holiday between April 29 and May 5. Naha’s dragon boat races, which will take place May 3 to 5, pit large multi-colored boats against each other in breathless sprints. Each vessel is powered by a 32-rower team and decorated with ferocious- looking dragon heads, scaled arms with sharp talons, and elaborate tails.

Teams range from those made up of district residents, groups comprised of company employees, and rowers from different countries (including teams from U.S. military installations). The three-day Naha Hâri Festival often draws hundreds of thousands of spectators and incorporates food booths, live band performances, and nightly firework displays.

Regardless of origin, dragon boat races remain immensely popular on Okinawa. The races have changed considerably over the centuries: today many of the ancient symbolic rituals of veneration are overshadowed by the entertaining spectacle. However, almost everyone who has witnessed or participated in a race will probably attest to this—during hâri season, water dragons do indeed rule the seas of Okinawa.

—Mike Daley

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Got questions for Mike? E-mail editor@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

Dragon Boat Races TOUR

ADULTS
$18 per adult

CHILDREN (3—11)
$11 per child
(0—2)
$5 per child

Cancellation Policy
Refunds for tours will only be granted to customers who cancel their reservation no later than two days before the tour date. Exceptions will be granted only for medical emergencies and duty obligation with written verification. MCCS Tours+ reserves the right to cancel tours if minimum reservation requirements are not met.

Monday, May 5
10 a.m.—6 p.m.

Experience Okinawan culture at one of the most well-known, well-attended events on island. Watch as teams (including those representing the U.S. military branches) entertain spectators with numerous races. Between races, enjoy live music, shows, street vendors, food booths, and games. Sign up at your local MCCS Tours+ office.

Camp Foster 646.3502, Mon-Sat, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Camp Hansen 623-6344, Mon—Wed, Fri, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
Camp Kinser 637-2744, Fri, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.

www.mccsokinawa.com

off-base events (May 2)

May 2, 7 p.m.
Okinawan Classical Dance Performance
Okinawa Folk Theater, Naha City
Tickets: 2,500 yen

May 3—5
Naha Hari (Dragon Boat Race)
Naha Shinko Port, Naha City

May 3—6, 9:30 a.m.—6 p.m
Okinawa Kodomo-no-Kuni Festival
Okinawa Zoo, Okinawa City

May 3—11, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Nago Orchid Festival
Neo Park Okinawa, Nago City

island tours - May 2

EXPLORE OKINAWA
WITH MCCS TOURS+

Battle Sites Tour
May 3, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $23.50; Children (3—11), $13; Children (under 3), $5
Visit the Battle of Okinawa Historical Collection on Camp Kinser. Then relive the battle with a history lesson. Explore the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters and end the day at Peace Prayer Park. Bring dollars for lunch and yen for admission fees.

Sweet and Salty Tour
May 3, 9 a.m.—2 p.m.
Adults, $15; Children (3—11), $9; Children (under 3), $5
See the processes behind two of Okinawa’s traditional trades. Visit a sugarcane factory to learn how Okinawa’s brown sugar is made, then head to a sea salt refinery to find out how salt is produced. Bring yen for lunch and purchases.

Northern Highlights
May 4, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $35; Children (3—11), $19; Children (under 3), $5
Visit Nago Pineapple Winery, Nago Glass Factory, and the Orion Beer Factory. Then enjoy
a yakiniku-style lunch (included) at Fruits Land Garden. Bring yen for purchases.

Southern Hills Ice Skating
May 9, 11 a.m.—4p.m.
Adults, $33.25; Children (12—17), $30; Children (7—11), $21; Children (3—6), $18; Children (under 3), $5
More than just an ice skating rink, Southern Hill offers batting cages, a bowling alley, video games, and more. Bring yen for food and activities. Note: hats and gloves are required for skating.

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For more information, contact MCCS Tours+: Camp Foster, 646-3502 | Camp Hansen, 623-6344 | Camp Kinser, 637-2744

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hey, mike: Trash collection

I recently moved to Naha City in Okinawa, and live in off-base quarters. While I was very impressed with the strict regulations regarding the separation of trash for recycling, I still have problems figuring out which trash is in what category. Can you help?

— Mitchell Harris

Okinawa is quite a small island, and with Naha City having such a concentrated and highly industrialized population, the trash problem is overwhelming. It is estimated that over 10 billion yen of citizens’ taxes in the prefecture are spent on waste disposal a year. And, waste disposal sites are filling much faster than previously projected by the prefectural government.

In Naha, as well as other larger cities in Japan, trash is broken down into six categories, and trash in transparent bags, (which are sold in local supermarkets) are the only kind of trash accepted by sanitation services. These categories include: kan to bin (cans and bottles); kami to nunou (paper and cloth); moyasu gomi (burnable waste); moyasanai gomi (non-burnable waste); sodai gomi (large items); kikengomi (hazardous waste); and items that cannot be picked up by the department of sanitation. The cans and bottles category does include aerosol cans that are completely emptied. All bottles and cans should be emptied and rinsed out before disposal. Paper and cloth items include newspapers, magazines, old clothing, etc., and these should be bound with string (not put into bags). Paper trash that is soiled should be thrown out with burnable trash. Other burnable trash items include kitchen waste, wastepaper, small wooden furniture items, cooking oil, etc.

Although chemical-based items such as Styrofoam, rubber, etc, are thrown out with non-burnable waste in many other municipalities, Naha City now has the capability to burn these safely. in Naha, non-burnable waste includes small electronic products (such as radios, and pocket calculators), nylon, polyester, plastic, and bento containers. Large items such as carpets, bicycles, large furniture, and tree trunks can only be thrown out on selected days, which are announced beforehand. Hazardous waste includes small alkaline batteries, fluorescent bulbs, broken glass or used blades, mirrors, etc. Bags containing these items should be packaged and labeled properly—i.e. bound in newspaper and a plastic bag labeled “kiken” or dangerous. Trash that cannot be picked up includes large appliances (televisions 25-inch and larger), car and lithium batteries, automobiles, etc. To dispose of these items you should call your local city hail for more information and assistance (separate fees will be involved).

While this system may seem overwhelming to some, most agree that it is a small price to pay when you consider the alternative— the distinct possibility of a once beautiful island paradise turning into a huge and repugnant pile of refuse in the near future.

—Mike Daley

Got questions for Mike? E-mail editor@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

island tours - April 11

EXPLORE OKINAWA WITH MCCS TOURS+

Okinawa: Back to the Future
Saturday, April 12; 9 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $18; Children (3—11), $11; Children (0—2), $5
Visit the new Okinawa Prefectural Museum and learn about the island’s past, present, and future. After enjoying the museum, we’ll visit Naha Main Place Shopping Center to enjoy lunch and the modern Japanese shopping experience. Bring yen for lunch, admission (400), and purchases.

Hiji Falls & Okuma
Saturday, April 12; 8:30 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $18; Children (3—11), $11;
Children (0—2), $5
Enjoy a hike to Hiji Falls and work up an appetite. After the hike, we’ll have a late lunch at Okuma. Bring yen for admission to Hiji Falls (200) and dollars for lunch. Note: Hiking can be strenuous and is not recommended for individuals with health problems.

Okinawa Highlights
Sunday, April 13; 9 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $18; Children (3—11), $11; Children (0—2), $5
Visit some of Okinawa’s top tourist destinations, including Zakimi Castle ruins, Bob Point, an Itoman glass blowing factory, and Peace Prayer Park. Bring money for lunch and yen for admission fees (800) and purchases.

Battle Sites
Sunday, April 13; 9 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $23.50; Children (3—11). $13; Children (0—2), $5
Visit the Battle of Okinawa Historical Collection on Camp Kinser. Then relive the battle with a history lesson. Explore the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters and end the day at Peace Prayer Park. Bring dollars for lunch and yen for admission fees. Note: Participants should wear comfortable, non-skid shoes and bring a hat and flashlight.

For more information, contact MCCS Tours+: Camp Foster, 646-3502 ; Camp Hansen, 623-6344 ; Camp Kinser, 637-2744

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Bitterness at Sugar Loaf

Story and Photo by Keith T. Graff

On the outskirts of Naha is nondescript hill that’s only about 50 feet high and 300 yards long. It is virtually unnoticeable. But the role Sugar Loaf Hill played as Japan’s last defense against an invasion of Okinawa during World War II make its significance monumental.

Any breakthrough here would have exposed the Japanese flank to attack. Fully aware of Sugar Loaf’s strategic importance, the Japanese defended it tenaciously. The siege at Sugar Loaf began on May 12, 1945. The fighting here was desperate and the casualties suffered on both sides were high. It took eleven attempts, but on May 18, the Marines prevailed.

Two days after it was taken, the Japanese launched an all-out counterattack in an effort to reclaim Sugar Loaf Hill. Over the course of the week-long battle, over 2,000 American troops were killed or were removed from the fighting due to battle fatigue. The actual number of Japanese casualties remains unknown but is presumed to be much higher.

Today, Sugar Loaf Hill sits on the outskirts of downtown Naha City. It’s a short five-minute stroll from the Omoromachi Monorail Station. The hill is located across the Street from the Duty Free Shops. A Catholic Church and a family restaurant occupy its eastern slope and apartment complexes including an athletic field are located to the south. Near the top of the hill is a small marker along with a plaque.

This small plaque is all that is left to note the sacrifice and heroism that took place over 60 years ago.

Craft workshop evokes inner artist

Story and Photos by William Stroud

Like many, I’ve noticed the exquisite sparkle of Okinawan glassware and thought, “I wonder if
I could do that.” After all, there’s an artist in all of us. Most people just never take a chance to give it a whirl.

One of the best places to get in touch with your inner artist is at the Naha Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts. You can try your hand at glass blowing, pottery making, shun-on (weaving), even bingata (cloth painting) and lacquerware design for about Y2,500. Then walk away with a finished product. Experts guide you every step of the way for safety and success. One project will only take an hour or so.

I’ve always found the whole process of adding color to molten glass and blowing through a pipe to form a cup or bowl intriguing. The Ryukyu Glass Blowing Workshop offered me my chance. Don’t expect to make a huge salad bowl, but you can make a drinking glass or small a vase. There are a number of examples to choose from. Anyone can buy a glass, but somehow the one I made seems more mine.

Now it’s your turn. The museum is on Kokusai Street, straight across from McDonald’s. Go up the outside stairs on the second floor, to the large open area past the craft shop on the left and walk toward the back railing. The craft workshops are on the right.

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Since 1956

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Fantastic Okinawa: Shisa honored at Tsuboya Festival

By Bill Charles

Tsuboya pottery is Okinawa’s finest, dating back centuries to the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom, and today marks the start to a festival paying homage to the most famous of hand crafted pieces.

The Tsuboya Festival is all about Shisa’s day, which is today. April is SHI(gatsu) in Japanese, and 3 is SAN in Japanese, making today the anniversary day of Shisa. From festival opening ceremonies this morning, which include Tsuboya Shisa Taiko Drum performances, to exhibitions that run through Sunday, it’s a time to introduce shisa to more foreigners, as well as locals.

Naha’s Tsuboya District has been the hub of Okinawan pottery since 1682, although the earthenware first began being made about 6,600 years ago. Today, dozens of workshops are still operating after being passed down from generation to generation. The most famous of the pottery is tsuboya-yaki, a product that has gained fame far beyond the islands of Okinawa.

There are actually two forms of tsuboya-yaki produced in Naha City’s Tsuboya District. Arayachi tsuboya-yaki is an unglazed pottery, often coated with a mud or manganese glaze. Typically, arayachi pottery is formed into large pieces that become storage vessels for awamori, water or bean paste. It’s also crafted into small masu-bin items such as bottles for measuring awamori.

Joyachi is a colorful glazed tsuboyayaki made into vases, teapots, pots, bowls, plates and even awamori traveling flasks. Tsuboya-yaki pottery was influenced by both Chinese ceramics first introduced in the 12th century, and a mainland Japanese Kyushu pottery.

Tsuboya District really got going when the Chibana, Wakuta and Takaraguchi pottery districts merged into the single district by a royal decree of the Ryukyuan court. It came about because of the Kingdom’s increased trading schedule with China and southeast Asia nations increased demand for the products.

World War II took its toll on Tsuboya’s craftsmen, who were directed by the Japanese Imperial Army to create battery cases and saucers for military use. After the war, a shortage of necessities for everyday life inspired Tsuboya District to quickly begin producing needed items. As Okinawa bounced back from the ravages of war, Tsuboya was forced to change. Kilns were deemed an annoyance in the downtown area, sending some artisans to the outlying areas to continue their trade. Others resisted, and Tsuboya District is alive and thriving today, although with electric kilns that don’t pollute the air with smoke.

An exhibition at Tsuboya Pottery Museum’s third floor gallery will run through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is free. There will also be special sales today only.

Sunday will feature something special, an opportunity for visitors to experience Shisaa making, using Okinawan clays. The participation fee is Y1,500. After making the pottery piece Sunday, the artisans will fire it in their kilns, then have it ready for pick up on April 26th.

Entry to the Tsuboya Pottery Museum is normally Y300 for adults, Y200 for high school and college students, and TY100 for middle school and younger students, but is free this week. The museum is normally open Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

The Tsuboya Pottery District is located in downtown Naha City, in the Kokusai Street area. Across from Okinawa Mitsukoshi Department Store on Kokusai is Heiwadori, a shopping arcade. After walking through Heiwadori arcade, visitors reach Tsuboya District. For those traveling from military bases, travel south on Highway 58 to Naha City, then turn left at signs for Kokusai Street.

Another route is to travel Highway 330 south into Naha City. Just before Naha Police Headquarters is Yogi Park; the Tsuboya pottery district is on the right side of Route 330 just before Yogi Park. There’s limited parking in the pottery district, so it’s best to park in a paid parking lot, or take a taxi or walk from Heiwadori or Kokusai Street.

Mining Naha’s hidden culinary treasures

Story and Photos by William Stroud

Many know the buzz of Makishi, Naha’s downtown marketplace, but few Americans brave the hidden passages behind its commercial facade. For those who forgo the blinding sparkle of Okinawan glass and clusters of tiny shops hawking seashell souvenirs, rare Vietnamese cuisine, succulent eel and an intriguing Chinese-style teahouse await.

As the saying goes, you have to dig a lot of gravel to find a diamond. To find the three jewels, walk down Kokusai-dori and enter the market through Mitsumibashi-dori, diagonally opposite Starbucks. Mitsumibashi is written in English on a huge sign over the entry way.

The first stop is at a Vietnamese eatery serving up delicacies. After entering Mitsumibashi-dori, walk about a hundred meters and look for a bright yellow sign that reads “Dao” on the right. Go upstairs and step into a restaurant with rustic tables. Check out “tom goi cuon,” the fresh spring rolls, “pho ga,” a spicy chicken noodle soup, or “ca kho,” a succulent fish stew. All are delicious. For those with inquiring minds or weak stomachs, do not worry. No odd ingredients are used to make the wary tremble.

If Vietnamese isn’t your dish walk a little farther until you see a tiny restaurant on the same side as Dao, but often obscured by tables laden with packaged foods. The brown wood, white lettered sign in Japanese is the clue. Smell the barbecued eel over rice, served in sushi rolls and otherwise. If the image of eel puts you off, think grilled fish instead. Think of a tasty teriyaki sauce and finding a tiny, no frills restaurant where you’ll be dying to take your friends.

If you’re not hungry but want a little something to nibble while you slake your thirst, a jewel of a tea house is just down the street. You should have no trouble recognizing the Chinese style, red and gold shop. Continue down the street about one hundred meters until you come to a large pedestrian crossroad. On the right is a pottery shop. Turn left to go down a shallow incline, but immediately after, turn into the passageway on the right. Then, continue for another hundred meters or so.

You will run right into Taiwan Tea, marked by a large, bright red sign on top. Step down the two short steps and into the world of Chinese tea. It has a bar with seats for about ten patrons. The owner, a silver haired Okinawan, speaks some English and is renowned for his friendliness and enthusiasm for the glories of tea. He makes personal pilgrimages to Taiwan and Mainland China to acquire the tea.

His wife speaks little English, but her smile lights up the shop. Teas run the gamut from classic and fragrant jasmine to purah, which is as black as coffee with a surprisingly smoky flavor. You can also sample a variety of teas. If you crave for a nibble to hold you over until the evening, ask for toast, which comes in Texas- size slices with a small post of fresh orange marmalade. The experience is one many rewards for those who venture off the beaten path.

Shuri Castle houses centuries of Okinawan culture

Lance Cpl. Ryan Wicks
OKINAWA MARINE STAFF

NAHA - Within its curved walls about 120 meters above sea level, Shuri Castle holds and protects the ancient history of Okinawa

Shuri Castle features elaborate architecture from the Chinese and Japanese cultures, including many historical buildings, a museum and an artificial lake built in 1427.

These are some of the things visitors can see as they visit the castle and surrounding grounds. As they tour the area, they can also learn about the history through information stations posted along the pathways.

The castle’s grounds are both open and sacred, which are common features of all old Okinawan castles, called “gusuku”. Shun Castle stands as a historical reminder of the Okinawan past and the legacy of gusukus.

King Satto, who built Shun Castle in the 14th century, used it as a royal residence and the center of government and religion.

After being obliterated in 1945 by the battle between U.S. and Japanese forces, it was rebuilt and served as the campus for the University of the Ryukyus.

The current site was opened to the public as Shuri Castle Park in 1992. It was rebuilt after its 18th Century version.

The main structure of the castle is called the “Seiden” or the main hall.

The first floor of the Sieden is called the “Shichagui,” where the king conducted the affairs of state and official ceremonies. The raised stage in the center of the room, called “Usasuka,” served as the king’s throne.

The second floor, called “Ufugui,” was used by the queen and high ranking “nyokan” (female retainers). The Usasuka in the center of the floor was used for formal ceremonies. The second floor is enhanced by high ceilings and decorations.

A steep stairway leads to the third floor, an attic directly under the roof designed primarily for ventilation.

The castle was registered as a World Heritage Site in December 2000.

Entry into the park is free, but visitors must buy a ticket to get into the central courtyard, housing the main hall, Seiden, and the smaller halls, Hokuden and Nanden.

To get to Shuri Castle, take Route 58 toward Naha. At the third traffic light past Camp Kinser’s Gate 1, turn left on Highway 82 and follow the signs to Shuri Castle.

Battle sites tours tell story of Battle of Okinawa

Pfc. Aaron Hostutler
OKINAWA MARINE STAFF

Hollywood’s romantic depictions of war often suggest one man can take on an entire army.

But on Okinawa, the lead tour guide with the Single Marine Program is determined to erase the delusion Hollywood has created.

SMP tour guide Chris Majewski leads battle sites tours on the island, educating tourists about the history behind several significant sites, including Hacksaw Ridge, the Battle of Okinawa Historical Display, the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters and Peace Prayer Park.

“The Battle of Okinawa was one of the most ferocious battles ever fought,” said Majewski, a former Marine who has been conducting tours since 1996. “We had the Japanese in a corner, and they knew the Americans’ next stop was going to be at their front door. How hard would you fight if there was an enemy approaching your front door? The only thing standing between the enemy and your kids and wife is you and your rifle. That would give you something worth dying for.”

Majewski described how the Japanese fought outmanned and outgunned. They had to resort to defensive positions in caves, which protected them from bombs and artillery fire and gave them the element of surprise. Japanese soldiers also used hand-to- hand combat because they knew the U.S. wouldn’t fire their heavy weapons near their own troops.

“There were times in the battle when their rifles were only useful as clubs,” Majewski said.
The Japanese gained a better view on the battlefield by holding the high ground on various ridges throughout Okinawa.

The Battle of Okinawa was projected to last one month, but the Japanese soldiers’ style of fighting forced the U.S. into a three-month-long engagement.

More than 240,000 people died including more than 14,000 Americans, more than 149,000 Okinawans, and almost 77,000 Japanese.

“No one can truly grasp the size of those numbers unless they’ve seen it,” Majewski said. The Gillette Stadium, home of the New England Patriots, seats 68,756 fans. Imagine that stadium filled to full capacity three and a half times.

“While those numbers may show how bloody the battle was, the tour concentrates more on the experience of the individual Marine and soldier,” Majewski said.

One stop during the tour was at the Battle of Okinawa Historical Display on Camp Kinser. The display features several artifacts from the war, including weapons, uniforms and tools.

“When a Marine or soldier was going off to fight in 1945, he wasn’t wearing all of the protective gear we have today,” Majewski said. “He was going out to fight in what would be the equivalent of our utility uniforms and a (helmet).”

The next stop on the tour was the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters, now a museum offering an insight into the Japanese soldiers’ daily lives as well as a series of underground caves the Japanese used during the battle.

“The caves give tourists an idea of what the Japanese used, but it’s important to remember the conditions that the caves were in during the war,” Majewski said. “There were hundreds of Japanese in those caves, with rotten food, dead bodies, disease and at times more than a foot of water.”

Majewski says the point of the tours is to provide an understanding of what the Battle of Okinawa actually meant to those who fought in it. No one can go back to 1945 and look at the battle themselves, and if they could, they probably wouldn’t live to talk about it.

The final stop on the tour was Peace Prayer Park. The park has an indoor museum, outdoor memorials for fallen warriors and an observation tower that looks over the entire park. The main memorial at the park, the Cornerstone of Peace, is a series of marble walls with the names of all those who died in the battle.

The walls offer another perspective on the gravity of the loss felt by both sides, according to Majewski.

For more information on battle sites tours, call SMP at 645-3681.