Prefectural museum presents island history, art

The main exhibit of the Okinawa Prefectural Art Museum showcases the influence World War II had on many Okinawan artists. (Photo by Lance Cpl. Tyler J. Hlavac).

Lance Cpl. Tyler J. Hlavac

NAHA, Okinawa (July 25, 2008) -- For history or art buffs looking for a glimpse into Okinawa's history and culture, the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum both offer a variety of experiences to enjoy.

The historical museum hosts an array of artifacts from ancient Okinawa dating back 18,000 years. The art museum showcases the pre and postwar era art by Okinawan artists.

The Okinawa Prefectural Art Museum is the first prefecture-run art museum on Okinawa, according to the museum's Web site, and it displays the influence World War II had on many Okinawan artists.

Some of the art displays show the chaos and destruction during the battles of World War II. In other displays, modern artists use their work to display their thoughts and feelings on modern day life, Okinawa's culture, and the trends in Okinawan art over the years.

There are also English- and Japanese-language newspapers from the World War II era as well as exhibits where visitors can learn about Okinawa's ecosystem or about the Okinawan culture from its beginning.

The Okinawa Prefectural Museum is dedicated to the study, collection and preservation of materials and resources related to Okinawa's nature, history and culture.

Visitors can view such things as an 18,000 year-old man from primitive Okinawa named Minatogawa Man.

Other exhibits include displays of ancient shrines, ancient tools and clothing worn by Japanese and Okinawan people throughout its historic periods.

History buffs may also take their time in the museum's media center, which contains archived documents and other audio and visual information detailing the history of Okinawa including the Battle of Okinawa.

The museum is a good way for visitors to learn about the island's culture and history, according to Lance Cpl. Daniel True, a combat videographer with the Camp Foster Combat Camera Center.
"The museum was the first one on Okinawa I had ever been to," he said, "and I didn't know Okinawa had so much rich, art history. The staff was very accommodating, and I recommend the museum to anyone who is new to Okinawa."

General admission to the historical museum is Y400 and the art museum is Y300. Hours of operation are 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and Sundays. Friday and Saturdays the hours are extended to 8 p.m. The museum is closed on Mondays.

To get to the museum from Gate 1 on Camp Kinser, take Route 58 south seven stoplights and turn left. Go to the second stoplight and the museum is on the left-hand side.

For more information, visit the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum Web site at http://www.museums.pref.okinawa.jp/.

IN MEMORIAM: Ceremony marks anniversary of Battle of Okinawa’s conclusion

Lance Cpl. Aaron D. Hostutler
OKINAWA MARINE STAFF

More than 5,000 people attended a ceremony at Okinawa Prefecture Peace Memorial Park June 23 to commemorate the 63rd anniversary of the end of the Battle of Okinawa.

The annual ceremony attracted civilians and U.S. service members who came to remember and pay respects to those who were killed during the battle.

“It is a great honor to be here,” said III Marine Expeditionary Force commanding general Lt. Gen. Richard C. Zilmer, “It’s important to remember not only those fighting on either side, but also the non-combatants who lost their lives.”

During the ceremony, Heiwa Kohshin-dan, peace marchers from mainland Japan, marched to the sound of drums around the park while thousands of attendees toured sections of the park such as Peace Memorial Museum, Peace Memorial Hall and the Cornerstone of Peace.

The Cornerstone of Peace is made of hundreds of upright marble slabs displaying the names of those who died during the battle. Some visitors placed flowers and gifts on the ground under the names of deceased relatives or friends.

“We gather this day...to respectfully and fervently mourn for all of the souls who died in the second World War,” said Toshinobu Nakazato, a speaker from the Okinawan Prefectural Assembly.

During the ceremony, Hirokazu Nakaima, governor of the Okinawa Prefecture stepped in front of thousands of listeners, both Japanese and American, and talked about peace between the nations.

“In the second World War, the people of Okinawa endured absurdity and utter brutality in extreme conditions that can hardly be described in words,” he said. “Through this miserable experience, we have learned a lesson, one that is universal to all humanity we realized just how precious peace really is.”

After the speeches, officials placed flowers on the ground as a sign of respect to the fallen.

“There are a lot of lessons to be learned from the battle of Okinawa,” said Kevin Maher, the U.S. Consulate General in Okinawa. “The importance of today is that this is not the time to debate the war, but it’s the time to remember those who died and those who suffered on both sides.”

Unlocking the spirits of rice: Secrets of making awamori

Story and photos by Reggie Cantu

A casual excursion through an Okinawan neighborhood can lead to new discoveries — including the time-honored tradition of making the potent local liquor known as “awamori.”

One day while strolling the hills of Chatan just north of the Camp Foster fire station I noticed a bank of gleaming stainless steel vats through the gaping doors of a nondescript building. Curious, I stepped inside. Yutaka Tamanaha, the comptroller, explained that I was in a "shuzosho,” or awamori distillery named Chatan Choro Shuzo.

About 600 years ago, a crafty traveler sailed from Thailand to Okinawa. He brought a batch of long-grain rice and the secrets of distilling that rice into what Tokyo University’s Kinichiro Sakaguchi declared to be “one of the best spirits in the world.” Sakaguchi is an authority in the field of zymurgy, the study of fermentation in brewing and distilling. Awamori is brewed much like beer except with rice.

The rice used in creating awamori is the indica genus of Thailand. Forty-seven distillers in the Ryukyus make awamori and they all have their own particular way of blending the final product. The proportions are kept as trade secrets and rely on the abilities of professional tasters to produce the desired formulas.

According to Tamanaha, the process in use is the same basic one discovered centuries ago. The rice is first washed and steamed in vats for at least 24 hours. It is then dried and kept at a constant warm temperature. It is then introduced to another interesting specimen, a black mold or “koji.” Black koji is also indigenous to Okinawa. As the koji permeates to the core of the heated rice, it creates enzymes which break down starch molecules into sugar, which can then be fermented.

After a day or two, water and yeast are added to the koji rice in other vats which are covered and left for a few weeks. The mash is known as “moromi.” Next comes the distillation where the moromi is heated and the water extracted. What remains is raw liquor. The new spirits are stored, initially in underground tanks to cool, then in the large steel tuns that first caught my eye. The awamori ages for at least three years before it is blended either with older spirits or water to reach the desired strength. Awamori, like most distilled liquor, mellows with age and the price rises.

Tamanaha’s brother, Hitoshi, is the master taster. He is in charge of creating the end product of the business, which has been in the same family and location for over a century.

I learned much about the liquid in those bottles I see in nearly every store from my little jaunt. Now I’m eager as a puppy when my much better half holds up the leash and asks, “Ready for a walk?”

hey, mike: Dragon boat races

I’ve been hearing about how they have dragon boat races here on Okinawa. Can you tell me a little bit about them? Are they the same as the ones in Hong Kong?

— Noah J. Smith

There are several popular Chinese legends that depict water dragons as quasi-demigods that govern the rivers, seas, and oceans. And every year, during the spring and summer months, these legends come to life in the waters surrounding the island of Okinawa.

Most agree that dragon boat races originated in China, and were either brought to the island as a form of entertainment for visiting Chinese envoys, or were transferred to the Ryukyu Kingdom by islanders who saw the spectacle while visiting or studying in China. One of the most popular legends about the beginning of dragon boat racing is the story of Chu Yuan—a faithful member of a 278 B.C. Chinese emperor’s court.

ChuYuan was a poet and philosopher, and while many in the government respected Yuan (and usually heeded his sage counsel), they adored playing their political court games too much. Yuan worked long and hard for reforms to save the ailing empire. However, it wasn’t long before the emperor was beguiled by silver-tongued sycophants and ChuYuan was banished from the court.

While in exile, Chu Yuan composed poetry about his fervent love for his country, and his deep concern for his homeland’s future. He made friends among the rural populace, especially with the fishermen.

However, upon learning of the devastation of the court at the hands of a rival kingdom, Chu Yuan fell into a bleak depression. And, because he felt somehow responsible, he leaped into the Mi Lo River holding a great rock.

Many fishermen raced out in their boats in an attempt to save Chu Yuan while beating on drums and splashing their oars in the water to keep the water dragons away from his body. Although many boats were dispatched to save him, none were fast enough, It is said that the dragon boat races throughout Asia were originally held in honor of this statesman.

Today, dragon boat races are held in fishing communities throughout Okinawa beginning in the late spring and lasting through late summer. The largest of these festivals is the Naha HárI (also known as Harii) which is held during Golden Week, five days of holiday between April 29 and May 5. Naha’s dragon boat races, which will take place May 3 to 5, pit large multi-colored boats against each other in breathless sprints. Each vessel is powered by a 32-rower team and decorated with ferocious- looking dragon heads, scaled arms with sharp talons, and elaborate tails.

Teams range from those made up of district residents, groups comprised of company employees, and rowers from different countries (including teams from U.S. military installations). The three-day Naha Hâri Festival often draws hundreds of thousands of spectators and incorporates food booths, live band performances, and nightly firework displays.

Regardless of origin, dragon boat races remain immensely popular on Okinawa. The races have changed considerably over the centuries: today many of the ancient symbolic rituals of veneration are overshadowed by the entertaining spectacle. However, almost everyone who has witnessed or participated in a race will probably attest to this—during hâri season, water dragons do indeed rule the seas of Okinawa.

—Mike Daley

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Got questions for Mike? E-mail editor@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

mccs TV: GUSUKU

GUSUKU
Tuesday. 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Gususku means "castle” or “fortress” in the Okinawan language and on this small island there are two standing gusukus and almost one dozen gusuku ruins to visit. Some of them are so important to the culture and history of the Ryukyu Islands that UNESCO has listed them as World Heritage Sites. In this episode of Okinawa Guide find out why these cultural treasures are being preserved.

MCCS Broadcast Team: Joe Andes, Victor Mercado, Samy Fineman,
Don Purdy, Kathy Millette, Shelley Merrell

Lacrosse instills warrior camaraderie

Lance Cpl. Andrew S. Avitt
okinawa marine staff

CAMP FOSTER — Lacrosse is a sport that originated among Native Americans in the 15th century and continues today, among other places, amidst the warrior culture of Marines.

The Eastern Cherokee called the sport da-nah-wah’uwsdi for “little war” a fitting name since the sport was used to settle tribal disputes and train young warriors for battle. The first lacrosse players competed as armies of competitors, anywhere from 100 to 1,000, on vast playing fields that sometimes stretched for miles.

The game has changed much over the years but the spirit and camaraderie of those original warriors lives on in Lacrosse clubs and leagues world-wide.

Since 2001, the Okinawa Lacrosse Club has strived to bring people together through the full contact sport and provide the opportunity to enjoy the game.

The club is open to all service members, and includes several Japanese members as well. This creates a diverse group and a sense of camaraderie between local citizens and their military neighbors, said Jim Peterson, the club’s manager.

In recent years, the lacrosse club has traveled to mainland Japan, Spain and Hawaii to play in international tournaments, where many team members discovered that the warrior spirit transcends all cultural boundaries.

“It doesn’t matter where you’re from, what language you speak or how old you are,” said Thomas R. Mango, a three year veteran of the team. “When you pick up that stick, it’s all the same language. That’s why I love this game.”

Lacrosse, also known as the “Fastest game on two feet,” is a sport that attracts a unique breed of athlete, Peterson said, one that is dedicated and not afraid to take a beating.

“When you leave the lacrosse field after a good game, you’re exhausted and a little bruised, usually just enough that you remember that game for awhile,” Peterson said.

The Okinawa Lacrosse Club meets weekly on Camp Foster and twice a week at Ryukyu University.

Those interested in learning more about the club can visit http://www.eteamz.active.com/okilaxclub.

culture corner: Fugu for the Daring

Among the epicurean pleasures of the world, eating fugu is something unique. Fugu, the blowfish or globefish, offers taste, health, and adventure in every bite. To enthusiasts, the paper-thin slices of fugu flesh, eaten raw, have a matchless delicate flavor. They are high in protein and low in calories—a weight-watchers dream. But it is the third aspect, the thrill-seeker’s adventure, that makes fugu truly distinctive, for fugu is among the most toxic of marine creatures.

A single fugu contains enough poison to kill 30 adults and there is no known antidote, although people often survive the milder cases of fugu poisoning. The deadly toxin in fugu is tetradotoxin, a neurotoxin. In Japan, the long and impressive list of fugu martyrs includes several hulking Sumo wrestlers and other notables. Each year, a few dozen fugu eaters in Japan are poisoned, some fatally. However, the death toll has shrunk in recent years. Most deaths involve fishermen who catch fugu, prepare the fish themselves, and never live long enough to regret it.

There is an old Japanese folk song that goes, “I want to eat fugu, but I don’t want to die.” These days, there’s less of a reason to worry. Indeed, eating fugu prepared by a licensed fugu chef is completely safe; the testing and licensing of fugu chefs is handled at local government level.

To qualify, applicants must first serve an apprenticeship of at least two years under a licensed fugu chef. Next, they take a two-hour written examination. Then, within three minutes, they must identify five species of the dozen or so fugu that are marketed. Finally, in 20 minutes, they must prepare the fugu, separating the poisonous organs from those that are edible. About 35 percent of applicants pass.

In the tora fugu, or tiger blowfish, which is the most popular and most expensive type, the meat and skin are safe to eat. All other organs of that species are dangerous, particularly the liver and ovaries.

Even so, if the chef in a restaurant knows a particular customer well, he may ask him quietly if he would like a tiny piece of the toxic organs. Some people like the faint numbing sensation that eating a small quantity of the fugu toxin produces.

Fugu is not unique to Japan; nearly 100 species inhabit the warm waters of the world. Yet it is in Japan that preparing and eating fugu is a common ritual. Why fugu? Anthony Bourdain, the gastronomic Indiana Jones from Discovery Channel, sums it up: “The lure of fugu is the sensation that though you know it won’t happen, it just might be you this time."

—Amar Bhuyan

island tours - May 2

EXPLORE OKINAWA
WITH MCCS TOURS+

Battle Sites Tour
May 3, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $23.50; Children (3—11), $13; Children (under 3), $5
Visit the Battle of Okinawa Historical Collection on Camp Kinser. Then relive the battle with a history lesson. Explore the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters and end the day at Peace Prayer Park. Bring dollars for lunch and yen for admission fees.

Sweet and Salty Tour
May 3, 9 a.m.—2 p.m.
Adults, $15; Children (3—11), $9; Children (under 3), $5
See the processes behind two of Okinawa’s traditional trades. Visit a sugarcane factory to learn how Okinawa’s brown sugar is made, then head to a sea salt refinery to find out how salt is produced. Bring yen for lunch and purchases.

Northern Highlights
May 4, 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $35; Children (3—11), $19; Children (under 3), $5
Visit Nago Pineapple Winery, Nago Glass Factory, and the Orion Beer Factory. Then enjoy
a yakiniku-style lunch (included) at Fruits Land Garden. Bring yen for purchases.

Southern Hills Ice Skating
May 9, 11 a.m.—4p.m.
Adults, $33.25; Children (12—17), $30; Children (7—11), $21; Children (3—6), $18; Children (under 3), $5
More than just an ice skating rink, Southern Hill offers batting cages, a bowling alley, video games, and more. Bring yen for food and activities. Note: hats and gloves are required for skating.

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For more information, contact MCCS Tours+: Camp Foster, 646-3502 | Camp Hansen, 623-6344 | Camp Kinser, 637-2744

mccs TV: Okinawan Art

Thursday, 2 p.m.

From woodblock paintings to fine sculptures, Okinawa has had a long history of creating unique and inviting pieces of art. At the end of World War II most of the island’s artwork changed to reflect the emotional needs of its people. This episode of Okinawa Guide features the phases of Okinawa’s fine arts in the post-war era, including a Section devoted entirely to Peace Prayer Park.

MCCS Broadcast Team: Joe Andes, Victor Mercado, Samy Fineman, Don Purdy, Kathy Millette, Shelley Merrell

island tours - April 25

EXPLORE OKINAWA WITH MCCS TOURS+
Yotsudake Dinner Theater
Friday, April 25; 6—10 p.m.
Adults $69; Children (6—11) $35; Children (under 6) $5
Savor the flavors of Okinawan cuisine while being entertained by traditional music and dancers. Choose between lobster or chicken dinner. Tour price includes transportation, dinner, and sPublish Posthow. Bring yen for extra drinks.

Lily Festival on Ie Island
Saturday, April 26; 8:30 a.m.—5:30p.m.
Adult $32; Children (6—11) $18; Children (3—5) $11
Visit Ie Island and enjoy the view of over one million lilies at Lily Field Park. Have fun at a
variety of local performances, including drum shows, Japanese music, and Ryukyu dance. Bring yen for food and purchases.
Shuri Castle/Naha
Sunday, April 27; 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults $18; Chilrren (3-11) $11; Children (under 3) $5
Tour the only standing castle on Okinawa, see Shureimon Gate, and view the ponds where boat races were held to entertain the court. After lunch on Kokusai Street, spend the afternoon at Fukushu-en Chinese Garden and Naminoue Shinto Shrine. Bring yen for lunch and purchases.

Tunnel Rats Tour
Sunday, April 27; 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $18; Children (7—11), $11
Join Tours+ for the tunnel tour of a lifetime. We’ll explore numerous caves that served as bunkers and shelters during WWII. Included in the tour is a stop at the Battle of Okinawa Historical Collection. Bring dollars for lunch.

For more information, contact MCCS Tours+: Camp Foster, 646-3502 | Camp Hansen, 673-6344 | Camp Kinser, 637-2744

hey, mike: Fish-shaped banners (koinobori)

Recently I’ve noticed a large number of flags that look sort of like fish flying above many Japanese homes. What kind of fish are they? Do these fish carry any special significance to the Japanese people?

— Daryl Whitman

The fish-shaped banners that you saw are traditional flags called koinobori, which are quite common during this part of the year because of the holiday Kodomo-no-Hi or Children’s Day. Kodomo-no-Hi, which falls on May 5, was originally known as “Boy’s Day” (the holiday counterpart of Hina Matsuri, or Girl’s Day). Every year during this holiday, which is a part of the string of Japanese holidays called “Golden Week,” effigies of carp, (known as koi in Japanese) are raised because the fish represent courage and perseverance in the face of hardship. During ancient times, it was thought that flying these emblems would bring health and prosperity to sons, and the child would grow up to be strong and filled with resolve like the carp.

Many Japanese believe that the main reason koi are so special is because of an ancient Chinese legend about a carp. The folktale is about a hardy fish that overcame strong currents and completed a long, arduous journey upstream. After it conquered the many rapids and waterfalls of the Yellow River and made its final leap over the Dragon Gate at the river’s head, it was rewarded for its perseverance by being transformed into a dragon. The popularity of this folktale caused the fish to be a symbol of strength and success.

While dragon sightings are few and far between, carp are quite prevalent in the temperate and subtropical freshwater rivers of Asia and Europe. Koi grow up to three feet in length and are considered an important food source in Japan, so much so that it has long been praised as the “king of river fish,” and is considered an auspicious dish served at special occasions.

In addition to being a source of food, carp are also kept as ornamentation for gardens and as pets in Japan. These koi are specially bred for their coloration and size, and many are known as living gems. There are over 20 species of these finned jewels; the most popular is the Nishikigoi which are bright red, white, and black. Many species of koi are popular among fish aficionados and collectors throughout the world— sometimes being bought and sold for the equivalent of tens of thousands of dollars.

Because koi grow so large, they are often kept in artificial ponds—many of which decorate the gardens of the wealthy. These ponds, called ike, are usually as beautiful as they are elaborate. They are often over two feet deep, hold over 500 gallons of meticulously filtered water, are always equipped with an extensive plumbing system, and are landscaped with stone and small bridges for fish observation.

It goes without saying that keeping carp as pets can be a bit more expensive than a Siamese kitten or a Doberman. However, many consider the fish quite loveable, and neither dogs, nor cats are as instrumental in a national holiday. And, while there aren’t any professional baseball teams in Japan called the cats or dogs, there is a team called the Hiroshima Carp.

—Mike Daley

Got questions for Mike? E-mail editor@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

Monument of shame

Story and photos by Keith T. Graff

Betrayal in love can have consequences that last a lifetime. In at least one case, however, the effects were literally monumental, serving as a timeless reminder to passersby.

On the northern outskirts of Nago City along the East China Sea is the little village of Genka. Turn right onto Highway 14 and cross over the island into Higashi Village and you will see a solitary monument near the crest of the ridge.

This little remembrance is marked by a lone sign. Many people will pass right by without paying it any mind. There isn’t much of a parking area and it doesn’t look well kept. However, there is a legend behind it that is as intriguing as its name - Hajiusui no to, or the monument of shame.

The most popular version of the legend rivals the tale of “Romeo and Juliet.” Like the Shakespeare version, a boy and a girl were in love but their families were dead set against any union. Unable to be apart, each night they sneaked out of their homes and met along the mountain path.

One night, the young woman did not appear. After a long wait, the young man thought she had spurned him and became very angry. He returned to his village where in a fit of jealous rage got drunk and made merry with other young ladies.

Later that same evening, his true love finally broke away from her home and ran to the rendezvous place. When she arrived and didn’t see him, she became concerned for his safety. She hurried down the path in great haste only to see him drunk and frolicking with some strange ladies! Feeling betrayed by the man she loved, she went back to their meeting spot and took her life.

The next morning, he felt bad about making such a rash decision and set out to see her. He found her lifeless body hanging in a tree. Realizing that he had played the fool, that his unfaithfulness was why she committed suicide, and to show his remorse, he built a monument to put his shame on display.

island tours - April 18

EXPLORE OKINAWA
WITH MCCS TOURS+

Fun Day at Marriott Resort
Saturday, April 19; 10 a.m.—4 p.m.
Adults, $45; Children (6—11), $26; Children (3—5), $11; Children (0—4), $5
Enjoy the ultimate in Okinawan beach relaxation at this resort. Enjoy the garden pool (with water slide), training room, and sauna. Bring yen for lunch and spending. Note: No children under 3 will be allowed.

Extreme Tunnel Rats
Saturday, April 19; 9 am.—5 p.m.
Adults, $18; Children (7—11), $11
Come join the explorers of Tours+ on a tunnel tour of a lifetime. We’ll explore numerous caves that served as bunkers and shelters during WWII. Included in the tour is a stop at the Battle of Okinawa Historical Collection. Bring dollars for lunch. Note: Participants should wear old clothing and sturdy, comfortable shoes and bring a hat, flashlight, and gloves. This tour is not recommended for children under 7.

Hedo Point & Kongou
Sunday, April 20; 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $24.50; Children (3-11), $15; Children (0-2) $5
Hike among the amazing rock formations and banyan tree roots of this beautiful park. After lunch at Hedo Point, enjoy a trip to Banta precipice. Note: Hiking can be strenuous and is not recommended for individuals with health problems.
Okinawa World/Himeyuri Noto
Sunday, April 20; 9 a.m.—5 p.m.
Adults, $29; Children (3-11), $16; Children (0-2), $5
Tour Gyokusendo, then enjoy an eisa drum show, a glass-blowing demonstration, a pottery village, and an awamori shop. Also tour the reptile museum (Y600). Visit Himeyuri Noto to hear the history of the Student Nurse Corps from WWII (Y300). Bring yen for lunch, purchases, and admission fees.

For more information, contact MCCS Tours+: Camp Foster, 646-3502 | Camp Hansen, 623-6344 | Camp Kinser, 637-2744

hey, mike: Ishigaki Island

I’m planning a trip to Ishigaki this summer; can you give me a bit of information about the island?

— Manny Ramirez

Some people prefer to be in the middle of a metropolis and enjoy non-stop action 24-hours a day, seven days a week. Interestingly enough, a great majority of people living in the fast lane invariably vacation in places where the pace is slower and more relaxed. The Yaeyama Archipelago—which Ishigaki is a part of—definitely fits in this category. The islands south of Okinawa are famous nationwide for their unspoiled natural beauty, blazing sunsets of red and gold, water the color of priceless emeralds, and some of the most laid-back people on Earth. These islands (many of which are only accessible by boat) offer countless sights that must be seen to be believed, multitudes of people with the purest of hearts, and a whole new perspective of Okinawa.

The Yaeyama Islands, located approximately 420 kilometers southwest of Okinawa, consist of lshigaki, Iriomote, Taketomi, Hateruma, Yonaguni, Kohama, and many smaller islands. These islands are actually geographically closer to Taiwan than Okinawa—especially Yonaguni, which can be seen from Taiwan on a sunny day. Although Iriomote is the largest of the chain (second only to Okinawa in landmass), it is largely deserted, and mostly preserved as a wildlife refuge. The hub of the Yaeyama chain is lshigaki—the second largest of Yaeyama’s islands. Although Ishigaki is accessible by ferry (a 16—20 hour trip from Naha Port), many may choose to fly to Ishigaki and take a ferry to one of its sister islands from there.

One of Ishigaki’s more popular neighbors, Taketomi Island is known for its star-shaped sand and its “time capsule” atmosphere. Iriomote Island holds the reputation as the “Galapagos of Japan” and has a thriving ecotourism industry. Yonaguni Island is the western most piece of Japanese territory. It is world famous among divers— especially for its mysterious “undersea ruins." Hateruma is Japan’s southern most point, and is well known among astronomers for its beautiful views of the Southern Cross from Starry Skies Observation Tower on the Takana coast.

Like Okinawa, Ishigaki’s location on the South China Sea accounts for the influences of China, Japan, and Southeast Asia apparent in the island’s culture. Unlike Okinawa, where mass tourism and the presence of U.S. military bases have led to Westernization, the southwest islands have been somewhat impervious to outside influence. Furthermore, the people of Yaeyama were left comparatively unscathed by Japanese colonial policies in the last century, the pitched battles of World War II, and the effects of the subsequent American occupation that continued until 1972.

While Japanese is widely spoken, it’s not uncommon to hear the people lapsing into dialect. Ishigaki has an exotic island feel that is intensified by the roadside presence of colorful dugout canoes, more suggestive of Melanesia than Japan. And it is said that it is still possible to find shards of ancient ceramic wares carried by Chinese trading vessels 400 to 500 years ago.

Whether visitors find one of these ancient artifacts may be questionable, however, virtually every visitor will return to their hustle and bustle with a warm shard of Yaeyama relaxation lodged firmly in their hearts.

For more information about the Yaeyama Archipelago and making travel arrangements, contact the Okinawa Convention and Visitors Bureau at (99) 098-861-6331.

—Mike Daley

Got questions for Mike? E-mail editor©okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.

culture corner: The Art of Haiku

fruike ya
kawazu tobikomu
mizu no oto
-Matsuo Basho

old pond...
a frog jumps in
the sound of water

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Simple yet deeply philosophical, concise yet substantial, brief yet legendary, haiku convey a meaningful glimpse into a fleeting moment with such subtlety that they are often underappreciated.

These seemingly uncomplicated three-line poems have a complex history. For hundreds of years Japanese poets have been writing, redefining, and revolutionizing the art, and haiku has continually been caught in the battle between traditional and innovative ways of thought. Haiku originated from hakai no renga, a multi-verse poem with strict format and content rules. These poems had serious tones and dealt with such philosophical topics as the nature of humanity. In order to take a break from these heavy verses, poets of the day began writing more humorous and playful hokku (intro verses to hakai no renga). Eventually hokku were written and read as their own complete, individual poems, and in the 1890s the term “haiku” was officially coined.

Although the history of haiku technically began a little over 100 years ago, the great masters of this style of poem were creating them well before they were named. Matsuo Basho— widely believed to be the greatest haiku poet—wrote during Japan’s Edo Period (1600—1868). His profound ability to write haiku was so revered that he had his own school of disciples. Even now, his timeless poetry is studied and admired by readers.

The basic tenants of haiku today are no different than those traditionally observed. The haiku is a three-line poem composed in a 5-7-5 pattern, meaning that the first line has five syllables, the second seven, and the third five. A syllable by English language standards is different than its counterpart in Japanese. In haiku, a syllable is actually an on, or a sound. An on is counted for each change in sound; so often more are counted than syllables would be from an English language perspective. A haiku also contains a kigo (word referencing a season) and a kireji (cutting word or pause) equivalent to the English use of a comma, dash, or ellipse.

But don’t think that the time-honored haiku hasn’t found its place in today’s techno-savvy world. If you don’t have the time to meditate for hours on the perfect words to describe a leaf blowing in the wind, several websites boast automatic haiku generators where, with the click of a button, a reader can enjoy a uniquely created haiku. While these haiku are no more than a medley of random words, they do have the requisite syllabic count, which is enough, some argue, to qualify as true haiku.

So, whether you’re getting your haiku fix via the Internet or taking time to write your own ode to the natural beauty around you, remember that these poems are truly impressive pieces of Japanese art. Perhaps English author Reginald Horace Blyth (1898—1964) said it best: “A haiku is the expression of a temporary enlightenment, in which we see into the life of things.”

—Richenda Sandlin-Tymitz

island tours - April 11

EXPLORE OKINAWA WITH MCCS TOURS+

Okinawa: Back to the Future
Saturday, April 12; 9 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $18; Children (3—11), $11; Children (0—2), $5
Visit the new Okinawa Prefectural Museum and learn about the island’s past, present, and future. After enjoying the museum, we’ll visit Naha Main Place Shopping Center to enjoy lunch and the modern Japanese shopping experience. Bring yen for lunch, admission (400), and purchases.

Hiji Falls & Okuma
Saturday, April 12; 8:30 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $18; Children (3—11), $11;
Children (0—2), $5
Enjoy a hike to Hiji Falls and work up an appetite. After the hike, we’ll have a late lunch at Okuma. Bring yen for admission to Hiji Falls (200) and dollars for lunch. Note: Hiking can be strenuous and is not recommended for individuals with health problems.

Okinawa Highlights
Sunday, April 13; 9 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $18; Children (3—11), $11; Children (0—2), $5
Visit some of Okinawa’s top tourist destinations, including Zakimi Castle ruins, Bob Point, an Itoman glass blowing factory, and Peace Prayer Park. Bring money for lunch and yen for admission fees (800) and purchases.

Battle Sites
Sunday, April 13; 9 a.m.—5 p.m. Adults, $23.50; Children (3—11). $13; Children (0—2), $5
Visit the Battle of Okinawa Historical Collection on Camp Kinser. Then relive the battle with a history lesson. Explore the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters and end the day at Peace Prayer Park. Bring dollars for lunch and yen for admission fees. Note: Participants should wear comfortable, non-skid shoes and bring a hat and flashlight.

For more information, contact MCCS Tours+: Camp Foster, 646-3502 ; Camp Hansen, 623-6344 ; Camp Kinser, 637-2744

Bitterness at Sugar Loaf

Story and Photo by Keith T. Graff

On the outskirts of Naha is nondescript hill that’s only about 50 feet high and 300 yards long. It is virtually unnoticeable. But the role Sugar Loaf Hill played as Japan’s last defense against an invasion of Okinawa during World War II make its significance monumental.

Any breakthrough here would have exposed the Japanese flank to attack. Fully aware of Sugar Loaf’s strategic importance, the Japanese defended it tenaciously. The siege at Sugar Loaf began on May 12, 1945. The fighting here was desperate and the casualties suffered on both sides were high. It took eleven attempts, but on May 18, the Marines prevailed.

Two days after it was taken, the Japanese launched an all-out counterattack in an effort to reclaim Sugar Loaf Hill. Over the course of the week-long battle, over 2,000 American troops were killed or were removed from the fighting due to battle fatigue. The actual number of Japanese casualties remains unknown but is presumed to be much higher.

Today, Sugar Loaf Hill sits on the outskirts of downtown Naha City. It’s a short five-minute stroll from the Omoromachi Monorail Station. The hill is located across the Street from the Duty Free Shops. A Catholic Church and a family restaurant occupy its eastern slope and apartment complexes including an athletic field are located to the south. Near the top of the hill is a small marker along with a plaque.

This small plaque is all that is left to note the sacrifice and heroism that took place over 60 years ago.

The legend of the Shisa

Story and Photos by Keith T. Graff

Shisa are spotted everywhere throughout Okinawa. Their appearance ranges from fearsome to comical. The colors can range from the standard red clay to just shy of outrageous. They are as traditional to Okinawa as baseball, hotdogs and apple pie are to America. On traditional homes they are seen alone, stoically perched on the roof top. In modern homes, they often appear in pairs standing post at the gates to act as guardians. They adorn businesses, schools government buildings and are sought after as souvenirs.

When in pairs, tradition dictates that the right one has its mouth closed and the one on the left has its mouth slightly opened. Many supposed reasons exist for this. Some legends say the closed mouth Shisa represents the female who (as in every husband’s fantasy) should keep her mouth closed at home. Another says that is the exact opposite and it represents the male who should keep the family fortune intact by keeping quiet. It runs along the lines of the old saying, “loose lips sinking ships.”

The Shisa were introduced to Okinawa as a gift from the Chinese Emperor to the Ryukyu King. The gift was a small necklace with two Shisa figurines attached. Legend has it that one day while the King was visiting the water front in Naha, a great dragon appeared and threatened the local villagers. The Noro high priestess instructed the King to face the dragon and hold his figurine high. As he did so, a loud roar was heard that frightened everyone including the dragon. The roar was so loud that it shook heaven and a great boulder fell from the sky. It fell onto the dragon’s tail and trapped him. Unable to run away, the dragon eventually died. The people made Shisa dogs to commemorate the event and protect them form further harm.

The city of Nago shares a similar tale to the Naha legend. The people there point to a rock formation in the bay that marks the spot where the dragon was slain. There is another legend that tells how the village of Tomori was constantly threatened by wildfires. A local feng shui master was sought out. He instructed the people to build a large stone Shisa and have it face toward Mount Yaese, which was believed to be the source of the fires. The village remains safe from the wildfires to this day.

For the past few centuries, people throughout Okinawa believed that evil spirits and bad luck can be fended off or balanced with friendly spirits and good fortune. This is one of the core beliefs in feng shui. Also imported is a belief system that seeks balance in nature and looks at good and evil as equally powerful opposing forces. Island locals have seized upon this idea and look to the Shisa as a way of fending off evil and bringing good fortune.

Buddhist ‘peace fort’ welcomes visitors

Story and Photos by Reynaldo Cantù

Many monuments have risen from the proverbial ashes of Okinawa’s wartime past, but only one was revamped from a missile silo as a symbol of hope. The Fortress of Peace offers a glimpse of this hope through the eyes of one of Japan’s most prominent religious groups.

The Mace B site under the command of the 498th Tactical Missile Group based on Kadena was decommissioned in 1969. The property was eventually purchased by the Buddhist organization Soka Gakkai International to serve as a site for its new training center.

However, the new owners soon realized that the hardened concrete silos were indestructible. Nonetheless, the Soka Gakkai Okinawa Training Center was built there in 1977. The group’s president at the time, Daisaku Ikeda, later decided to change the original facility into a “world base for peace” and the project was completed in 1991.

While the place is a religious center, visitors are allowed to tour the grounds and a converted launch tube. Drawings created by civilians who survived World War II line the incline. The artworks convey the raw emotion of the cruelty of the battle that native Okinawans suffered.

To get there, head north on Highway 58 and turn right at the first light past the Razzan Sea Park Resort Hotel. Follow the road approximately three hundred meters; the entrance is on the left.

Monument recalls wartime woes

Story and Photos by Keith T. Graff

Not far from Peace Prayer Memorial Park in Itoman is the Kenji Monument, or the “Tower of brave youth,” dedicated to the 307 teachers and male students of the Okinawa Normal School. Conscripted into the military and killed during battle, most fell at Mahuni Hill where the monument is located.

In early 1945 the war drew closer to Okinawa. The local citizenry - thousands of people from across the island - were mobilized and placed in labor camps to build massive fortifications. Perhaps out of desperation, the military trained school boys to fight as soldiers.

The boys were given a rifle, 20 rounds of ammunition two grenades and instructed to never surrender. When their ammunition was exhausted, they had to use the bayonet. If they had no bayonet, they were to use the rifle as a club or throw rocks. One grenade was made to be thrown at the enemy and the other was for dispatching themselves.

During the waning days of the battle, boys who tried to surrender were often shot by Japanese troops before they could reach the safety of the American lines.

The monument is located on the back side of Mabuni Hill. You can walk to the monument by going a few hundred meters around the hill from the main parking area.