culture corner: Spam Onigiri

Spam probably isn’t the first food that pops into most minds when craving a delicious snack. Many people do not find Spam very appetizing and often refer to it as “mystery meat” or simply dislike it because it is not exactly nutritious. However, one may be pleasantly surprised after tasting Spam onigiri which happens to be sold all over Okinawa in places such as local Family Mart or Lawson convenience stores.

Onigiri is boiled rice that is molded into a triangle, cylinder or circle that is wrapped in nori (dried seaweed) and usually has some type of filling inside. Although this may sound similar to sushi, it differs because the rice is not treated with vinegar beforehand. It is also about three times larger. All kinds of onigiri can be found, most of them triangular-shaped, with fillings such as salmon, miso (fermented soybeans), umeboshi (pickled ume fruits), tuna, and more.

Spam onigiri, also known as Spam musubi in Hawaii and poku-tamago locally, resembles a sandwich as it is rectangular-shaped and is a little larger than the triangular onigiri. It consists of rice wrapped in nori and contains a slice of fried Spam and scrambled egg placed in the middle. Okinawan Spam onigiri often has tuna or miso inside as well.

Spam is made of ham, pork, sugar, salt, water, potato starch, and sodium nitrate, which helps it retain its pretty pink color. It is produced by Hormel Foods and has sold over six billion cans since 1937. Spam has become a part of Okinawan culture and cuisine and can even be purchased in gift sets as souvenirs at local gift shops.

Spam was introduced to Okinawa during World War II and has been popular ever since. The U.S. military brought it to the island when food was being rationed. Fresh meat was scarce so Spam was served as a convenient alternative because of its high calorie count and long shelf life. It didn’t take long for the Okinawans to take a liking to it, and they soon began incorporating the “mystery meat” into many local dishes, such as champuru and of course, Spam onigiri.

Spam onigiri is a surprisingly tasty snack that- can be identified by an Okinawan-themed plastic wrapper with pictures of shisa, a red hibiscus flower, and Shuri Castle on the front. It tastes great at any time of day, and can even puts a twist on a typical breakfast. It can be consumed cold, straight out of the refrigerator, or can be heated up in the microwave for about thirty seconds. The cashier at Family Mart or Lawson will even heat it up for you when you purchase it. A cold Spam onigiri tastes great on a hot summer day. It costs about 200 yen and will offer you a taste of Okinawan cuisine that you may have never experienced or dared to try.

—Rebekah Davenport